Ugh! This is made by horsehair, really? -Korean horsehair crafts revived with modern design
Ugh! This is made by horsehair.
-Korean horsehair crafts revived with modern design
(December 12, 2012 OhmyNews)
(Photo 1) 2017 Craft Trend Fair (12.7 ~ 10 COEX) Jeju luxury goods development project booth
At the 2017 Craft Trend Fair, works made from rare materials were displayed and collected. It was a valuable product made by combining Jeju's intangible cultural artifacts and eight fashion designers with Jeju's eight hats, bags, accessories and shoes made with Jeju's horsehair. On the opening day, Mr. Jong Hwan Lee, Minister of Culture, Sports and Tourism, Seon Hye-won National Assembly member, National Assembly members of Culture and Sports Committee, Choi Bong-hyun, Director of Korea Craft Design Culture Promotion Agency, and Mung Kyung-Bok Jeju City Culture and Sports Director visited the exhibition booths and watched the works and encouraged the designers. Visitors who viewed the exhibit were also acclaimed as "unique, chic and beautiful, and the best of the best products were created using Korean traditions." Let's see the works first.
(Photo 2) (left and right) Horseman bag
On the left is a show pouch that is wider and wide on the front side. It expresses the color of the layered clouds seen in the forest and the autumn sky of Jeju native forest with the design of the gradient and gives a depth of nature and a chic visual sensibility. The material was Kang Soonja (total hat), and the design and finished product was made by Kwang Hee (bag designer).
The right side is a feedback (kotatsu bag) made by combining the narrow horseshoe made by the technique of wrapping the head with the bandana technique and the material woven with the Western tapestry technique. It was designed to solve the vibrancy and serenity of the glows spreading on the horizon of Jeju sea. The materials were Kang Jeong-hyang (mahjangjang), design & finished products were made by Kwang-Hee Lee (bag designer).
(Photo 3) (Left) Hat cap, (right) Bamboo pattern hat
On the left is a hat decorated with a horsehair and a simple hat decorated with long horses hanging next to the feathers. The upper part of the flexible crib that looks like a cowboy hat, plus a proper angle and width, adds functionality and modernity. The material was Kang Soonja (total hat), and the design and finished products were produced by Park Nam Gyu (hat designer).
On the right side is a summer hat that reflects the image of Jeju's sunlight on the face in the shape of a hat. The design of the bamboo is made by cutting the thin layer of bamboo like a thread, and the yellowish bamboo of the bamboo is slightly woven together for a proper shade and coolness. The material was Jang Soonja (Yang Taejang), and the design and finished product was made by Park Nam Gyu (hat designer).
(Photo 4) (Left) Longchain lace boots, (U) horsehair tassel sandals
On the left is a long boots with a height of 50 centimeters. It is made by combining the tangent material with the vertical part of the back of the calf. When women wore long boots, they expressed the dynamism of the skin coloring through the mesh-style tangan material and the dynamism of the horse running wild in the fields through dense clouds. The materials were Kim Hye-jung (Tang Geun Chang), and Jang Hee-ju (shoe designer) was responsible for the design and production of finished products.
On the right side is a summer sandal with emphasis on the activity and lively feeling of the horse with the corsage tassel decoration at the front. I added a sophisticated pattern of lattice patterns in the band of the horseshoe technique and the heel of the sandals of the back side. Jang Hee-ju (shoe designer) was responsible for the design of the material and the production of the finished product.
(Photo 5) (left) Bamboo crystal necklace, (right) horsehair jewelry accessory
On the left is a necklace that combines shiny fibers and crystals and brass ornaments on top of a bamboo slice down material like a lace. It is a beautifully coordinated design with colorful bamboo and brass in yellow tone. Jangsoonja (Yang Taejang) was the material, and Lee Il Jung (Jewelery Designer) was responsible for the design and the finished product.
On the right is a headpiece that combines a crystal lace with a tee on an original tangan. It is designed to feel the beauty of femininity with simplicity and glamor when worn on the head. Kim Hye-jung (Tang Geun Chang) for materials, Lee Il Jung (Jewelry Designer) for design and finished products.
(Photo 6) In August this year, a workshop for the development of tubular arts and crafts in Jeju
These works are the result of collaborative workshops, workshops, and design discussions, where designers and craftsmen meet in Jeju for six months from July this year. The craftsmen made materials according to the designers' designs, and the designers designed the fashion accessories and made the finished product considering the craftsmanship, bamboo making technique and style. The project was hosted by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism and sponsored by the Korea Craft Design Culture Promotion Agency as part of the '2017 Regional Craft Village Promotion Project'. In Jeju, the Jeju Grand Crafts Cooperative held a project and was sponsored by Jeju City. Work processes and interviews of craftsmen and designers can be appreciated on YouTube (Title: 2017 Jeju Ceramic Arts and Crafts Luxury Project).
(Photo 7) (left) Kwang Hee Lee bag designer, product development consultant,
What are the concerns of those who participated in this project? On the third day of the exhibition, the main contents of the roundtable meeting where the assistant professors and designers of the Jeju Tungsten Crafts meet met on the night of the 9th. I first heard about the project manager who was in charge of the project. "This business was not an easy business. At first, I did not understand that craftsmen were developing a new product because there was a stereotype of a lifetime. So they communicate with most of their daughters who are teaching assistants in the tubular crafts. The daughters have been working alongside each other in the midst of understanding the collaboration between mothers and designers. It's good to have good results. "
(Photo 8) Designers' sketch and product development process
I was impressed that the meeting of traditional technology and modern design was successful. Kim Gyeong-hee, the accomplice of Tang Geun Chang. "My mother (Gang Hye-jung, Tang-geun), who weaves Tanggun, has made Tangun a lifetime, but has only thought of using it in its original shape. But this time, the designer turned it over and created an accessory that put on the head and combined gems. I was amazed and surprised. My mother said, 'You really can do this too. Thank you for making me nice. "
(Photo 9) (Left) Han Gang - Kang Jeong - Hyang (Mangan Jean), (Total) Total Hat - Kang Soonjae (Total Hats), (Right) Tang Gun - Kim Hye - jung (Tang Gun Chang)
The joy of good performance came to light, but it also led to a realistic grievance. In order to succeed and develop traditional crafts, the government designated intangible cultural properties to support a certain amount each month. Most of the children are working as assistant professors through the assistant professors, and the support of several hundred thousand won per month has been abolished since last year. It is the representative of cooperative association of Jejuju luxury craftsman. "I left my job as a visual designer in Seoul to get behind my mother (Changsunja Yang Taejang) and came down to Jeju. However, from last year, the subsidy for assistant professors was also cut off. There are popular and unpopular items in traditional crafts. Wooden furniture, household goods, ceramics, and ceramics, which are often used as bowls and glasses, are popular items because they have many real-life items. However, horsepower has no use at all, and it is unpopular. It is not economically profitable to be a trainee or a full-time assistant to earn a horsehook craft. I'm in my 40s and I think it's a big deal if I think I will continue to work this way. "
The designer of the bag designer, Kyunghee Lee, who has consulted with the overall design and product development of the project, says, "Like this, the government's support or project ends in a year or a few years. Eventually, the actual party, the horsehunter craftsmen and the designers themselves, can not help but open up the possibilities as they make their way one step at a time. This is my first experiment, but as we have done well, we will continue to develop and make this product. Especially, if you collect the horseshoe design works created this time and go abroad, you will be able to inform the world of the originality of Korean craft design. I would like to be supported by the government and design related organizations. "
(Photo 10) (Left) The image of Chang-Soo Jang (Yang Tae-jang)
In Europe, horsehook purses, horsehair tassels and horsehair handbags are sold at a price from a few hundred thousand won to a few million won as a product with functionality and fashion beauty. Park Nam-gyu, a designer who participated as a hat designer, added concrete stories in this regard. "If you sell in the Harrods department store in the UK famous for its fashion luxury, Horseshoe hats and bags are available in Europe, but horseshoes made of bamboo are unimaginable. I think it would be surprising to know that the delicacy is almost thread-like and that it is cut into thin slices of bamboo. However, a horsehair is a good thing as a material of horseshoe, for example, ultraviolet rays are blocked as a material to accurately identify the benefits and well informed sales would be helpful.
(Photo 11) 2017 Craft Trend Fair - Visitors who visited Jeju luxury product development exhibition hall
The horsehair and bamboo gut are Korean traditional crafts. The work of the craftsmen of the tubular craftsmen who made the horse tail of the horse tail and the bore of the bamboo by hand, and made the tangun, the panang, the mode and the hat were hard work and livelihood. During the Japanese imperial era, the demand was cut off and the tubular crafts rapidly declined. There was an effort to revive such a hair ornament, but it was only a long time ago. In 1938, Chung In-ho received a special prize in the arts and crafts section of the Chosun Art Exhibition. He then presented 30 items including hats, handbags, and cushions. However, after liberation, horseshoe products were disappearing on the market, and in the '70s there was an effort to revive horseshoe crafts, but unfortunately there was no success. This year 's Jeju' s horseshoe and tubular crafts' luxury branding project is a new challenge for 40 years, and the difference is that it is in the form of collaboration with fashion designers with decades of domestic and overseas experience.
Korea's tubular arts, which are forgotten and are about to disappear, are combined with contemporary design and are considered to have opened up new possibilities as a modern craft luxury item through the 2017 Craft Trend Fair. For the development of Korean traditional craft and modern design industry.www.ohmynews.com/NWS_Web/View/at_pg.aspx?CNTN_CD=A0002384752
This is paper bag
This is a bag made of Korean paper ‘Hanji’, made of tapestry technique. It is one of the collections of Hanji bags in 2017 of the designer Myounghee Zo.
(Paper Moon Jar bag) series
(White porcelain Moon jar : Early18c, Korean Government Treasures No.1437)
These Hanji(Korean paper) bags were exhibited at <100% Design London> in 2015. This is a bag that looks like a pottery. It is called a moon jar because its shape looks like a moon and is round. The soft curves of the moon jar are considered to symbolize the beauty of Korea with an emphasis on mild beauty. In Korea, a white porcelain shaped like a ‘moon jar’ has been popular for several hundred years.
This is a feedbag. These bags were designed by Designer Myounghee Zo and collaborated with paper craft experts. It takes about 10 days to make one bag by hand.
(Jiseung : Korean paper weaving teachnology)
Koreans have long history of paper bags, boxes, etc. and even arrow-protecting armor. Paper is very strong to weave the Korean paper made from the mulberry bark to make various things. It's a way to make a piece of paper with 3 centimeters of fine paper and woven paper string horizontally and vertically. This paper weaving teachnology is called ‘Jiseung’ in Korea.
(Paper bag Exhibition - Woomul gallery in SEOUL)
It will be exhibited at Woomul Gallery in Seoul Korea until July 16th, 2017. Designer Myounghee Zo sought to find Korean material (Mother-of-pearl, paper, ramie fabric)and tried to find craft techniques. She went to the craftsmen who were accustomed to the traditional way and persuaded to do new work. The tradition should be reinterpreted according to the present life, not the follow-up. Experimental work always excites her.
(Dedigner - Myounghee Zo)
STORI’s founder Myonghee Zo was launched her own handbag label in 2004 soon after graduate Central Saint Martins collage of Arts and Design in UK. Her graduation presentations attracted the attention of schools and media with her unique fashion show. Stori bags were sold at London Liberty Department Store, Berlin Gallery Lafayette and Europe, USA, and Asian department stores.
Her aesthetic philosophy is “The eclectic coexistence of traditionalism and modernism” which reflects not only her creation but also branding and design consultancy fields as well. Currently, she has a design office in Seoul, and has been engaged in handbag art activities and handbag brand consulting.